the prototype:
here are the photos of the first prototype
using kitchen drawer runners with a corner brace, attached to rope for the foot mechanism
the flat hinge, adjusted to fit in the slot that is there for the original rudder, you can also see that the rudder can be lifted up
the rope is connected to the corner braces using two key rings, you can also see the 3 pvc roof thingies (I'll find the proper name) to ensure a water tight seal on an angled face.
full view of the rudder, including a good view of the ability to angle the rudder such that if you hit something in the water, it won't rip the rudder off the back, and also for transportation purposesIngredients:
for the rudder:
plenty of M6 bolts and nylon lock-nuts
each bolt 2 washers
flat hinge
1.5mm aluminium plate
2 key rings
3X 3m tent guy lines
2 angled braces
2 corner braces
3 PVC sheet fixings
for the foot mechanism:
2 corner braces
and a bunch of tools, including:
metal jigsaw
metal files
drill bits
benchdrill
pliers
Initial testing:
I have crossed the wires, such that when you press the right pedal, the rudder turns left, thus you turn left. This is in contravention of the airplane rudder protocol (push right, turn right), but it makes more sense when you are canoeing (to me anyway).
The rudder holds up very well, of course the flat hinge is not stainless, thus rusts a bit.
In testing on the water it ensures the canoe is extremely stable, in normal situation, only feathering the rudder is required, and it acts as a keel. when the boat "wants" to go off course, it is easily brought back on the straight and narrow, thus we can focus on putting the pedal to the metal/water in a very straight line!
Thus I will keep this rudder, but will make some more adjustments, including a remotely retractable rudder, and adjustable guylines, to take up slack in the rope, or slightly different foot position, or if Sam (who has slightly shorter legs) want to give the steering a go.
